What’s Life Like East of Malcolm X?

I get a lot of emails from people asking me about the neighborhood, and I usually can give a halfway informative answer, but every now and then I get questions that I simply cannot answer. Just the other day, I got this one from a reader:

My husband and I are considering buying a townhouse. We are seeing a lot of beautiful homes in eastern Bed-Stuy (Bainbridge, Decatur, Macdonough) east of Malcolm X. I have absolutely no idea what it’s like out that way and was hoping you could shed some light.

She’s already been to some open houses and she’s visited the area several times, and she’s been living in Brooklyn for several years now, so she’s not new to the borough. I’ve only been to the area on summertime bike rides and I don’t feel like that has given me enough knowledge about the area to adequately answer the question. Other than the fact that the area has the seasonal Malcolm X Farmers Market, Brooklynite Gallery, the newly opened Brownstoner’s Cafe and the express A train, I’m not sure what else is going on around there.

So I’m asking for your input on this one. What’s it like living east of Malcolm X Boulevard? What amenities are there in that section of our neighborhood? What do you enjoy about living there? Is there something that this area lacks? Something that you need to travel to other neighborhoods for? Even if you don’t live there, but you’re familiar with the area, what are your feelings about it?

About The Changeling

I'm living and blogging in North Stuy.
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17 Responses to What’s Life Like East of Malcolm X?

  1. Vettievette says:

    How far east do they want to go? From what I’ve seen myself, the area around the Ralph C is okay. Patchen and Howard also seemed quiet, but a bit isolated…not much stuff around there as far as everyday conveniences like grocery stores, etc. because it’s mostly residential. Have they lived in Bed-Stuy before? They should definitely check things out at night. I’ve heard from some students I work with that parts of Howard and Patchen aren’t the greatest – but not really sure what blocks.

  2. The Changeling says:

    Hey Vettievette! Thanks for your input on this. One of them has lived in Bed-Stuy before, but in Far West Bed, and you know how different West Bed is from the far eastern section.

  3. Andrew says:

    I have lived on MacDonough between Ralph and Howard for 2 & 1/2 years and this is how I feel about it in a nutshell:

    I like that it’s quiet and nearly everyone is friendly.
    I like the summer block parties.
    I like that it’s very pretty and inexpensive and that there are no hipsters.
    I dislike that (aside from Brownstoner’s Cafe) there are no places to go to eat or have a few drinks except for those 4 blocks away on Lewis.
    I dislike that there are no decent grocery stores–however there is one bodega (Adony, on Ralph and Decatur) that is awesome.
    I’m a musician, so I often come home VERY late at night from the C stop at Ralph, and almost never feel unsafe. There have been a few bad moments–one involving a hostile homeless guy who tried to follow me home and one time I got mugged by a group of teens–but they by no means characterize the area or its people, which I consider myself one of.

    In the relatively brief time I’ve lived here, I’ve seen small changes beginning (the coffee & tea cafe on Howard, the bodega starting to carry higher-end foodstuffs). Once this area gets more businesses, it will be perfect in my esteem.

  4. The Changeling says:

    Thanks, Andrew! Very informative!

  5. Rachel says:

    Hi! I’ve lived on MacDonough between Ralph and Patchen for a little over a year now. It’s really lovely here. The townhouses are beautiful, and the neighborhood has a family feel– great block associations, etc. My block even has a gardening club. Awesomely, t’s close enough to the A, C, J, and Z trains that it avoids the transportation problems that most of central Bed-Stuy faces.

    There is an undervisited tea room on Howard between MacDonough and Decatur, run by a wonderful woman- I hope it can stay open long enough (maybe a write up in BSB would help?) There’s also Saratoga park, which is a beautiful neighborhood park, and there’s a great fish and chips place nearby too. And there’s the aforementioned Adony grocery (we call it Favorite Bodega) and Brownstoner Cafe. I would buy a house in this neighborhood if I had the means!

    One downside of this area is that your friends will think it’s far away (it’s not! 15-20 minutes to Manhattan on the A, even at rush hour). But the largest by far that there are NO good grocery stores. I take the bus to Broadway and Myrtle for my greenmarket/organic/large grocery store-type purchases. To me, it’s not that much of an inconvenience, but if you have children or are used to being able to walk around the corner to get green vegetables, this will be a switch.

    Good luck with your decision!

  6. Rachel says:

    Oh, also, as for crime- it’s pretty block-by-block, it seems. Ralph is a little hard, but nothing terrible. East of Malcolm X, I wouldn’t want to buy south of Decatur, though. This is just my impression of the neighborhood, but there was a shooting in that area, and the more minor crimes are often committed by groups of teenagers from the Brevoort Housing Project on Ralph and Fulton. It seems, in general, that most unpleasantness in the area is minor stuff caused by small groups of teens. However, I am a young, white girl, and I have walked around the neighborhood very very late at night –alone– without much of a hassle. Like everywhere in NYC, you keep your head about you and you’re fine. Again, good luck!

  7. PamG says:

    We have lived in the neighborhood for 2 1/2 years on Macon between Patchen and Ralph. We have great neighbors, an active block association, fun summers which include our block party and the jazz mobile. Our children ages 5 and 7 have made wonderful friends and enjoy playing in Saratoga Park. Subway access is good with the J and A. I agree with Andrew about the lack of places to go, although Lewis Ave is not that far, it will be great when other businesses take route – - it is just a matter of time. Andrew, thanks for the tip on Adony, will check it out!

  8. Andrew says:

    I had no idea there were so many other fans of Adony. Maybe we should start a Facebook Fan Page for it :)

    @Rachel: What’s the name of the place you go food shopping on Myrtle and Broadway? Right now I either go to Trader Joe’s in Cobble Hill or Pathmark at Atlantic Center.

    Also, every time I go to that little tea house, it’s closed. I tried Saturday several times and it was closed all day. My roommate tells me it’s great and I really want to try it out. I hope it’s not closed for good.

  9. Rachel says:

    @Andrew: I go to Mr. Kiwi’s on Myrtle and Broadway (supplemented by Trader Joe’s, of course). They have lots of organic/hippie stuff and usually really good prices on produce (organic stuff tends to be expensive but I’m just happy to be able to buy organic milk/eggs/butter/etc. and ethnic foods without having to go to TJ’s). Across the street on Myrtle is Food Dimensions, a rarity- large-ish grocery store with a parking lot! They also are starting to carry more organic food, and more choices like cheeses and ethnic foods. The B47 gets you there in about 10 minutes :) At the very least you’ll never need to go to the Pathmark at Atlantic Center again- I hate that place so much, and I’m sorry you have to lug stuff back to Bed-Stuy! (Though, they always have kosher Coke for Passover. Anyway, I digress.)

    Also, Adony is really just a bodega, but I still love it! The folks there are really nice and they recently got a cat. I’m not hard to please as far as bodegas, i guess. It’s also the only bodega in Brooklyn where no one ever tries to pick me up. That’s a selling point for a woman for sure!

    As for Victoria’s Tea Room, last time I was there she mentioned she was having trouble keeping it opened. I tried to go once since then and it was closed. I really hope it’s not for good, she’s such a wonderful lady and the tea and desserts there are fabulous!

  10. Sharad says:

    I live on Macdonough between Ralph and Howard for over a year now. We have had a great time. Both my wife and I take the J train to work ( much better than C – since we get seats and faster to the city) and walk past Saratoga Park back home ( the best park in Bed Stuy). There is a Montessori for age 2 to 5 in our block which I am told has lot of kids coming from Upper West Side part of Bed Stuy. Not to mention Bed Stuy Fish Fry – a decent pick up place.

    I think Bed Stuy Fish Fry, Victoria’ Tea Room and Montessori have never been covered by the blog, something to consider.

  11. Vettievette says:

    Andrew and Rachel – as for local food shopping I go to Foodtown – http://www.foodtown.com/ It’s a real grocery store w/ decent quality like the Pathmark on Atlantic and in our neighborhood! Also not far from Foodtown is a fruit/veggie stand that has decently priced produce as well. There’s also the Farmer’s Market @ Fulton Park during the warmer months.

  12. Rachel says:

    Thanks Vettievette! I will try the FoodTown! I have gone past it before, but it always looks closed. If you’re talking about the produce stand on the corner of Ralph and Fulton, I don’t really like their selection- it’s usually small and not fresh, at least when I have been there. They’re very nice people, though. Also, it closes at like 5pm, which doesn’t really work for me. I also didn’t know there was a farmer’s market at Fulton park! I knew about the Lewis Ave. one and the Malcolm X Blvd. one, but this is news to me! Awesome :)

  13. Rachel says:

    Never mind– I was thinking of the Associated on Fulton/Patchen and the nearby produce stand. Thanks again! I will try the Foodtown!

  14. brooklynnjewel says:

    Hello All,

    I have lived in Bed Stuy my entire life (Lewis Ave) and about 5 years ago I lived on Bainbridge between Ralph and Howard. I never thought the neighborhood was unsafe because once you get on your block, you see your neighbors and most of them are home owners. You see the pride they take on caring for their property. I enjoyed it very much, having the Rite Aid on Fulton and then having the coffee shop on Lewis. The newer stores like Saraghina, Peaches, Wine Therapy, etc were not there five years ago and now they are greatly appreciated. I miss Orchid Cafe and I am hoping they open up soon, I ran into them at a community meeting and they plan on opening up again near the old Orchid Cafe. I am not a fan on Brownstowners at all, the quality is bad and they are never open.

    Now I live on Macon and Ralph and I am older and plan on starting a family. So now I more aware of what is missing like good grocery and markets. Some of the Bodegas in the neighborhood carry some good items but I heard a market is coming soon on Stuyvesant.

    All in All. its a great area. Decatur, Macdonough, Macon, Bainbridge, Hancock.. all have some beautiful brownstones there. Lots of new homeowners and people moving into the neighborhood. I feel so safe and I feel like I belong to a community.

  15. The Changeling says:

    These are great comments. @Sharad: I’m making a note about the Bed-Stuy fish fry, the tea room and the Montessori school.

  16. original_questioner says:

    Hi everyone- I am the one who originally asked about the area. Thank you all so much for your comments! I’ve been in Clinton Hill for six years now, and if we move I really want to retain the awesome sense of community we have now. Sounds like this might be the place.

  17. Bkrealtist says:

    One last comment to add to all the great comments offered so far….properties there, while not maintained as well as other neighborhoods, actually rival the rest of the neighborhood in terms of floor plan, architecture and aesthetics. Good Luck and Great Comments.